Here we go again.
At some point this year, sooner or later depending on official paperwork, I'm moving to Denmark. My Viking man got himself a PhD position at a university in Copenhagen, so that's where we headed. An Icelander and an American--quite possibly two of the most unpopular nationalities in Western Europe. Awesome!
When we moved to Iceland two years ago, he reassured me, "if it sucks, we can always move". That was only a few months before the Kreppa, so obviously things did start sucking shortly thereafter.
The first year in Iceland was a nightmare; we lived in a very drab suburb (Garðabær) where I felt very cut off from other expats and society at large. (Remember that Reykjavik has no mass transit besides a marginally-efficient bus system, so for a car-less foreigner in a suburb, that's like a prison sentence.) The second year improved exponentially: we moved downtown, I developed a network of interesting and fun friends (thereby shifting the in-law to friend time ratio back in my favor), and I dumped Icelandic studies in favor of a more useful masters degree at Háskóli Íslands. Which incidentally is also taught in Icelandic. But it's a cheap degree. And I picked up some freelance work, so I could afford a few beers now and then at some neighborhood cafés. Friends! Cool neighborhood! School! Work! Yeah!
Since I'm only halfway through my masters degree and because we FINALLY got a life in Reykjavik, I am slightly ambivalent about this move. Mostly it's because my fragile psyche cannot handle another Garðabær situation. I hate suburbs in the US, and suburbs in other countries are equally depressing. So we made a rule: we don't need to live in the coolest, most hip downtown neighborhood, but there will NO depressing, uppity suburbs. I will not be a Range Rover-driving Stepford Wife.
Also, have you heard Danish? I should be able to read some because some words are similar to Icelandic, but I can't picture myself actually saying anything without bursting out laughing at how ridiculous I sound. (Sorry, H.) Most of the expat blogs I've browsed from Denmark have listed this as a thorny issue. Note to self: must find potato to insert in throat... (Sorry again, H.)
I am also a tad bit leery of living in another Scandinavian country. Scandinavia in general is very safe, family-friendly, and all about being cosy. But Scandinavia is also--how shall we say--homogeneous. In societies that are very homogeneous, and very proud of it, integration is very difficult. This may explain why foreigners tend not to last for more than a few years in Iceland. (Even if they speak the language fluently.) It's very hard to penetrate the social circles here, and I've heard the same for Denmark. I fully expect the vast majority of our friends there to be other expats and international students. (And there's nothing wrong with that.)
But now for the good things about Denmark: biking, beer, mass transit, trains/ferries to other European countries, masters courses taught in English at universities, Legoland, and goat cheese is available in shops!
Still, I'm afraid to let myself get excited, because I fear the crushing disappointment that comes with the "grass is greener" sort of optimism of moving to a new place. When I heard that we were moving, I thought I would be much more excited because Iceland is just not a good fit for me. I don't coo over infants and my idea of a fantastic hike is San Francisco. And I'm not into cakes and ice cream. Or knitting. Why haven't I been deported already?
I think this move is going to be an exercise in setting realistic expectations and contingency planning. I'll definitely use the valuable lessons from my move to Iceland.
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Ghostigital "Interdeterminacy" Live @ Hafnarhusid
13 hours ago


Hej (as they say in Denmark)
ReplyDeleteI'm a Brit expat living in Iceland but I just came back from living in Denmark with my own viking man.
Although there a similarities between life in Iceland and Denmark - I find Danes to be much more laid back and warm. It might be difficult to penetrate social circles at first, but they are very open and friendly people, especially if you make some effort - or offer them a Carlsberg.
Copenhagen is a beautiful city and cycling is something I really miss. The city has lakes and parks that are wonderful to spend the weekend... with big trees! Also in summer the city has good warm, sunny weather and blossoms with colourful flowers. As much as I love Reykjavik, Copenhagen has a much better atmosphere and is more aesthetically beautiful.
Another big bonus is the fact you are connected to the rest of Europe, cheap flights and trains - which is something I miss a lot when I'm living in Reykjavik, especially as a Londoner.
Although, you are right about the homogeneous part - Denmark is still relatively new to immigration and multiculturalism. Saying that though, they are learning to embrace it especially in neighbourhoods like Nørrebro where you will find the best middle eastern and Indian restaurants in the city.
Oh and the supermarkets don't suck like they do here. They're many supermarkets to choose from and they usually have fresh, ripe veg and fruit.
I absolutely loved my time living in Copenhagen. Also, your knowledge of Icelandic will really help you with reading Danish, which is most helpful - Danes rarely expect foreigners to speak Danish and probably speak English even better than Icelanders! I managed to get by with 'tak' and 'undskyld' :)
Although I will miss your blog, I hope you have a fantastic time and embrace Denmark for all that it is.
(if you would like any advice on areas to live or housing.... or anything like that I could give you my email address)
I should also add that the 'cosy scandinavia' that you talk about will be something UNAVOIDABLE in Denmark. In Denmark cosiness or 'hygge' is a philosophy, a way of life :)
ReplyDeleteYou have to continue this blog! The opportunities for cultural humor could be unbelievable when you get to Denmark. Almost like moving from Minnesota to Wisconsin!
ReplyDeletepfffuuuuuu shit you will be missed :-((
ReplyDelete@Alexandra - Takk/Tak! Your comments are very reassuring and, thankfully, much of what you told me has been reinforced by others. Phew! (These Icelandic supermarkets are killing me.) I would love to get in touch with you. My email is jrbowe (AT) gmail.
ReplyDelete@Jon - That is so true. Any society with a lingering Monarchy has plenty of tackiness to go around. I promise to continue the blog --I'm thinking of clever blog names now! (Scandlish?) Although I think Sweden is more like Minnesota. Actually, Sweden is an exact replica of Minnesota, just with fancier people and cars.
@Virgile - I know. Your kitten will be devastated.
Poverty tries friends.....................................................................
ReplyDeleteJust a quick word from another expat Brit, whose (now long past) experiences of life in Denmark definitely back up what Alexandra says in her helpful and encouraging comment. It will be hyggeligt, and you might actually find that reassuring. So do take heart - og du må har det godt, du!
ReplyDeleteThanks Minnie! I can't wait to experience this "hygge" phenomenon in person...
ReplyDeleteJust found your blog. We lived in Iceland for 3 years, all 3 of which were in downtown Reykjavik on Sudurgata. Interestingly enough, although I loved being able to get a hlullabautar at 11 p.m., there were times when I yearned for drab Gardabaer. A friend lived there overlooking the lava fields (and Ikea, that wasn't quite so exciting) and I was terribly jealous of her peace, quiet, and lack of city buses driving on her sidewalk to get around turning cars...or trash in the front yard...or folks randomly jumping on our trampoline in the backyard...
ReplyDeleteAnyway, wish I had found your blog sooner, sounds like you arrived the minute we left...and I should say, I did enjoy the walkability of downtown, and my husband had a fab 5 minute commute...good luck in Denmark!
I lasted 5 years in Iceland and, all told, had a good time, learned a lot and met some great people (and the sexiest women in the world) Having said that, I found that no matter how "integrated" you think you are (my Icelandic is decent), you will simply never be a true member of the club. That's not a complaint, or a terrible negative - simply the way it is. Here in Toronto, over 50% of the population is from somewhere else and you would get nowhere trying to be "clubbish" - it's simply not possible. And yet, in the midst of this exciting 5 million people metropolis, I miss quaint old Reykjavik with its colorful houses and mountains and angry sea
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