Thursday, February 3, 2011

A little rant about the joys of shopping in Iceland or importing stuff from the free world

This is what I think of when I'm forced to do any shopping in Iceland:



Here's the thing: my boyfriend owns two pairs of jeans. Only two! Seriously. Meanwhile, I have how many pairs? I lose count. But I digress. Anyway, these jeans are going on three years old, which means that after near-daily use, they are wearing to threads. Threads! Keys are falling through the front pockets. There are impressions in his back pockets, perfectly formed in the shape of his wallet. It's time for new jeans to join the family. Oh boy.

Therein lies the problem. Shopping here--as I have ranted about in great lengths in previous posts--is really like entering a world of pain. It's a small island, OK? Stuff is imported at high cost and then due to general lack of competition the stuff is marked up to an even higher cost. Then there's a 25.5% VAT levied on the stuff. And now the stuff has become prohibitively expensive. For new jeans in Iceland, we're talking about 15000 - 20000 ISK on average, not even for designer denim. You don´t even want to know how much that costs.

To get around this obstacle, most people residing in Iceland simply take 1 or 2 mostly empty suitcases abroad and stuff them full of Target or H&M or whatever store the merciful retail gods have presented to them. Socks, underwear, jeans, computers, iPods--you name it, it's all fair game. Naturally, at customs in Keflavik Airport, nothing is "new". And sometimes, unassuming guests coming to Iceland are given a formidable shopping list by their host(s) in Iceland. (Thanks, Shannon!)

But lacking the time or money for a trip abroad or lacking any visitors from "the free world", sometimes a person has to bite the bullet and [gasp] buy stuff here. After a largely unsuccessful trip to one of Reykjavik's two shopping malls, my boyfriend decided that maybe he would just order some cheap jeans from American Eagle Outfitters in the US and just pay the exorbitant shipping fees. BUT here's how that would work out:

1 pair of men's jeans (on sale!) at AE:  $35
AE's fee to ship to Iceland: $50
SUBTOTAL:  $85

But wait, there's more!

Jeans & shipping: $85
VAT @25.5%: $21.68 (This is obviously converted to ISK by this point)
NEW SUBTOTAL:  $106.68 for a  $35 pair of American Eagle jeans.

There may also be an import duty assessed to this shipment but it's hard to calculate what that would be, mostly because I'm not up to date on all the laws and bylaws and technicalities of the Tollstjóri, the Iceland Directorate of Customs. However, by checking out the Iceland Post website, I found this handy-dandy little toll calculator, courtesy of Tollstjóri http://www.tollur.is/upload/files/calc_netverslun(20).htm

According this calculator, there is a 15% import duty on the package. That works out to $12.75. But then when I went back to double-check my USD-ISK conversion of the VAT in the toll calculator, I found that my original VAT estimate was off. The toll calculator first adds the 15% import duty to the shipping costs and purchase cost of the product and THEN it calculates the VAT. So now we have this:

"cheap" jeans from AE: $35
shipping to Iceland: $50
import duty @15%: $12.75
REVISED SUBTOTAL: $97.75
VAT @25.5%: $24.93
GRAND TOTAL FOR A PAIR OF CHEAP $35 AE JEANS: $122.68


FUCK! SHIT! World of pain!


And this is why I have a lot of clothing from second hand stores and clothing swaps, folks.

The Tollstjóri can also charge a fee to just open a box to examine the contents and value--even if it is marked as a "gift" from your mother. They do this because even gifts valued over 10000 ISK are subject to VAT and import duty (only on the difference on the amount above the 10000 ISK threshold). The fee for opening a package can be something small like $5 but it's still insulting. But sometimes--if a minion at the Tollstjóri feels altruistic that day--then maybe there's no charge.

Once I had to pay 800 ISK for the privilege of them ruffling through a package from my mom that contained (no kidding) a Green Bay Packers jersey as a joke and three boxes of Craft Mac 'n' Cheese (not as a joke). I thought this was annoying, yet somewhat hilarious. More recently, my friend Shannon sent me a "hipster mustache" that she found for $3.50 at a grocery store in Portland, OR. It was sent in a padded envelope along with a quirky magnet and my spare keys (that she forgot to return after visiting us in Iceland). This package was also opened by the Tollstjóri but they found the kindness in their hearts not to charge me for it.

Fake 'hipster mustache' from Portland, Oregon: $3.50
Knowing that someone at Tollstjóri was thoroughly confused by a package containing a fake mustache and set of keys: PRICELESS

14 comments:

  1. wow, I've never been charged the package-opening fee before, and I've gotten plenty of slips over the past 5 years here about BOI (boxes of interest). I've since learned to tell my friends to never repurpose Amazon boxes to send me anything.

    Sometimes I don't get an email but when the package arrives it's got an "opened because we're suspicious" sticker on it. My mom's packages are usually the ones they open, and she's become such a master at wrapping expensive, small things unattractively that they've never found any of the real goodies.

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  2. If the customs stop you package at the airport, don'T you have to pay for the postage AGAIN, if you can't prove that you did?

    Oh and don'T get started when you see two different prices for the same thing at a shop and when you ask them "why are you charging 2 separate prices for the same thing", all they can say is "err, this lots came to us on a different date..."

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  3. @ECS - I love that acronym BOI - "Boxes of Interest". It would be an interesting name for an album. Or maybe not. Also, I'd like to hire your mom to ship stuff to Iceland for me. My mom is still undergoing training.
    @Bob - What's this about paying double postage at the airport? How exactly does that work? And yeah, I've noticed contrasting prices for items at stores. Mostly at Bonus though--and probably just due to laziness by the disgruntled 14-year-old employees.

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  4. P.S. After this post (and every ranting post like this) I'm waiting for the standard anonymous commenter to tell me "if you don't like it here why don't you just leave?" or "why do you never write about the nice things in Iceland?" They bring me great joy as an expat blogger.

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  5. I've resorted to using shopusa.is for electronics (that desperately needed and would cost more here even w/ shipping and VAT), but it doesn't help much - you can save some off the shipping, which I guess means a little less in VAT. I've had clothes ordered in the US shipped to my parents there, who remove them from packaging with all tags, wash them, and send via USPS, marking the box as containing "Other" (they write in "Personal Belongings" in the line next to that. It usually works, but I have received an occasional notice requesting a receipt for what's inside (it happened last week, and I just called the post office and told them they were my personal belongings that were shipped from the States, which was true!).

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  6. @Jessie - Interesting! See, I knew having a blog would open up a new world of information for me;')

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  7. I just moved here in October, and only a few weeks ago had my first exposure to the world of international trade, Iceland style.

    I have a large, rather expensive computer (a 27" iMac). I'm a Computer Science professor, so even though this is just my home computer, it's still useful to have a high end computer. My mom works in a box factory, so she had her people make a box big enough to fit the computer inside (packed in its own box) and with enough room left over to stuff some padding (clothes and towels mostly) around the sides. So this is a large box, and fairly heavy.

    DHL shipping from Memphis came to about $1100 (which was then refunded and re-billed at $900 with no explanation at all). Then we got to the fun part.

    Of course, this is a "box of interest", and I got an email asking if I had receipts (my mom too in the learning stages of this particular game). So I sent receipts showing that the computer was a year old, and a handful of other receipts I could find in my email archive. I'm thinking, if it's a personal item I already owned before I came here, I'm not supposed to have to pay the import duties. A day or so later, it's cleared customs and I go to pick it up where I'm told I owe 88000 ISK. I'm talking to the guy at DHL here in Reykjavík, and he of course has no idea what's going on -- he just has the bill. He says if I'll leave the package with them and send him the receipts again, he'll see what he can do. This is on a Thursday.

    On Friday, I haven't heard anything, so I send him an email and he says he never got the receipts. I send them again, and he says it'll be Monday before they do anything.

    Monday comes and goes...no word.

    Tuesday, I call the DHL customs liason, and they say they have seen nothing, and to send the receipts (again) to a different address. So I do that.

    Wednesday, they call me back wondering where the package is. "You still have it."

    Thursday, they call again and say they sent it back to Keflavik and customs is going to look through the box again.

    Friday, DHL calls and says I can come pick it up and that I owe nothing. Which was a little odd, because some of the items in the box were actually new, still had tags on them, and were labeled as new in the list I sent them.

    I have almost no idea what went on at any step in this process. I'm not sure whether DHL is completely incompetent or staffed with geniuses of the highest order. I don't know if my receipts actually convinced Tollstjóri of anything or if they just got tired of lugging my 35 kg box all over the North Atlantic.

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  8. I 100% sympathize. In fact, this is a huge issue for me too. I'm not too fond of the local fashion, so I rely on external sources for a lot of shopping. The problem is, sometimes I find myself paying VAT twice because of weird customs regulations! Or it happened I had to pay for my own stuff I left back home when my mother sent it to me. When it's about clothing, it's still acceptable because I wouldn't know what to do otherwise, but I entirely gave up on other things, like tea for instance. Paying for tea from the UK up to twice its actual value it's outrageous =/

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  9. There's a brand of Mac 'n Cheese at Bonus I've picked up a couple of times that is fairly decent.

    Gettin' me a Taco Kit mailed for my birthday. Seems to me that if books are included in the package it's less likely to get searched for some reason.

    Once my Dad marked "Merchandise" instead of gift, though, and I got taken into a back room by a customs cop to explain a box of peppermint patties. The Icelander that was with me was flabbergasted and said he'd never even heard of that happening before.

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  10. That post just makes me very very angry. Really pissed off. And it also explains, how did you put it, "formidable shopping list" which we have, in fact, been given. I am so very sorry. PS. when I go jeans shopping this weekend, I'll think of you. go Packers.

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  11. Hmm, icelandic tollstjóri, how i hate you.
    I once ordered a dull eastpack rucksack on ebay for $10, the postage was $10 (which i figured was ok, as it came from hong kong) and then they CHARGED ME $10 in tax. That's 50% of the total cost AND postage. Grr.
    Now, my sister wraps all my amazon purchases - primarily school books - in glittery paper, and includes 'birthday' cards with hliarious inscriptions, saying she knows how much i desperately want to read 'Strategic Environmental Assessment'
    Just don't get me started on my laptop incident at Keflavík airport....

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  12. Hi there. Just thought I would comment to say thanks for the link to the tollur calculator.

    But otherwise... Fuck, shit indeed. World of pain absolutely sums this situation up.

    The worst thing is shopping for household items. 200,000 kr for the cheapest bed at Betra Bak? 60,000 kr for a light switch and a few plug sockets? I know that everything has to be imported, and taxed, etc, but I just cannot grasp how anyone affords these prices. People in Iceland don't earn that much money, do they?

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  13. they have mac n cheese from kirkland at KOSTUR in reykjavik. they sell them in bulk and theyre just as good as kraft

    if u are arriving from the us all u have to do, is go through the gate with ur bf and flash them ur green card. they wont (or shouldnt) question u afterwards, even if ur living there. if u just got off a plane they wont search ur bag and can't charge u if u flash it, pretty sweet

    my mom got charged a few thousand kronur for bringing a small pepperoni packet to iceland though OH LAWD

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  14. Pu - uh well, I was royally pissed off in Logan Airport when I found out that most of the US doesn't do tax free at all in March when I bought my new mac... Don't blame us for double VAT when it's the US that doesn't want to refund their VAT :þ (if you're talking from the UK like you might be, well, get their VAT back, I've never had any problems from there).

    Interesting blog, will be following. But why, as you don't seem to like Iceland, do you live here??? (djóóóók :D :D :D)

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Hvað finnst þér? What do you think?